The End of PFAS: How Cycling Clothing Just Got a Lot Less Waterproof

For decades, cycling's best waterproof jackets relied on a class of chemicals called PFAS—per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances—to make fabrics shed water while allowing sweat vapor to escape. They worked brilliantly. They also persist in the environment for centuries, accumulate in human tissue, and have been linked to cancer, immune system suppression, and developmental issues.

In 2026, the cycling industry is racing to replace them. The results? Promising, but complicated.

The PFAS Ban and Its Fallout

Gore fabrics was built upon PFAS chemical technology, and it pervaded practically every product, so the shift to PFAS-free alternatives was an existential change for them, though Polartec has been PFAS-free since the end of 2022, and brands like POC and Rapha have launched PFAS-free alternatives, but the zenith of wet weather performance is probably behind us until the new chemistry catches up.

That last sentence stings. For riders who've spent years testing jackets in Scottish winters or Pacific Northwest downpours, the old Gore-Tex standard was the benchmark. Three-layer membranes with 20,000mm hydrostatic heads, taped seams, and breathability that *actually worked* during hard efforts. Now? The industry is rebuilding from scratch.

Polartec has launched their new AirCore fabric, co-developed with Castelli and used in the latest Perfetto RoS 3 jacket, with research suggesting there's a declining need for highly waterproof cycling clothing, with fewer rain events and better forecasting allowing riders to schedule their rides around rain, or they can 'ride/train' indoors, as a result prioritizing breathability over extreme waterproofing, offering a 5,000mm hydrostatic head while allowing 0.7 CFM of air to pass through it.

Translation: the new standard is "pretty waterproof" instead of "absolutely waterproof," with a focus on not turning your jacket into a sauna.

The Breathability Myth

Here's a dirty secret about waterproof-breathable fabrics: they don't breathe nearly as well as marketing claims suggest. An industry expert said there's a marketing perpetuated fallacy that "when your face textile is waterlogged, the breathability of the membrane may be compromised," but called it "bulls***." What he meant is the scale of breathability of a waterproof breathable membrane is "really waterproof… and not that breathable—more breathable than a plastic bag… but the wet out of your face fabric isn't going to make this jacket any less breathable than it already is."

The physics are simple: water vapor molecules are larger than air molecules, and membranes that block water droplets also impede vapor transmission. The result? You get wet from the inside (sweat) even as the outside stays dry. For hard-riding cyclists, that's a losing trade.

The PFAS-free fabrics exacerbate this problem. Without the fluoropolymer chemistry that made water bead and roll off instantly, fabrics "wet out" faster—meaning the outer layer gets soaked, vapor transmission drops, and you're back to riding in a mobile steam room.

What's Working: 3D-Printed Chamois and Tailored Fabrics

One bright spot in the cycling clothing revolution has nothing to do with rain. New York-based Rubber N'Road uses 3D printed technology in their Control 3D bibs, with the company's founder saying that "for racing there is nothing as good as foam because of its elasticity and malleability," but "foam tends to compress over time," so for Endurance applications, they use Elastic Interface's 3D printed insert.

The founder explained: "Is it the best chamois in the world [for everything]? No, but where it's brilliant is how comfortable it is at the third, fourth, fifth, sixth hour—because there's very little compression, and because of the breathability and lack of water retention."

This is the future: fabrics and materials tailored for specific use cases, not one-size-fits-all solutions. Racing chamois prioritize compression and elasticity. Endurance chamois prioritize breathability and durability. Rain jackets might split into "90-minute tempo ride" versions (lighter, more breathable, less waterproof) and "all-day epic" versions (heavier, more protective, less breathable).

Washing Your Jacket More Often (Yes, Really)

An industry expert noted that "many of the technologies are impressive but they're requiring us as consumers to take care of our products better; we need to teach our customers that they need to wash their jackets more often," explaining there's a large cultural perception that "if I wash my waterproof jacket I might damage it; nothing could be further from the truth."

Dirt, oils, and sweat residue all degrade water repellency. PFAS-free DWR (durable water repellent) coatings require regular reactivation through washing and heat (tumble drying on low or ironing through a towel). If your jacket isn't shedding water like it used to, wash it. Don't add fabric softener. Dry it with heat. The DWR will reactivate.

What This Means for Your Riding

If you're shopping for a rain jacket in 2026, adjust your expectations. The new generation of PFAS-free jackets won't perform quite like the old Gore-Tex gold standard. That doesn't mean they're bad—just different.

Look for jackets with generous pit zips or back vents if you run hot. Prioritize fit over maximum waterproofness—a well-fitted jacket with 5,000mm protection is better than a baggy jacket with 20,000mm. And plan your rides: if it's going to pour for 6 hours, maybe that's a Zwift day.

For brands, the message is clear: don't overpromise. Riders are tired of jackets that claim to be "fully waterproof and breathable" but turn into sweat lodges after 30 minutes. Be honest about the tradeoffs. Some riders want maximum breathability and will tolerate a bit of seepage. Others want bombproof protection and will accept less ventilation.

The PFAS ban is a net positive for the environment and public health. But it's forced the cycling industry to reckon with the fact that the fabrics we loved were built on chemistry that never should have existed in the first place. The new materials will get better—they already are. Just don't expect miracles overnight. And for god's sake, wash your jacket.